Dress-chart.



PATENTED JULY 26, 1904.

J. ULRICH.

DRESS CHART. APPLICATION FILED OUT. 30; 1903.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

N0 MODEL.

A 0 9 1 GM 2 Y L U J D E T N E T A P H m me E R D APPLICATION FILED OUT.30, 1903.

2 sumssum a.

NO MODEL.

QIfI

latented July 26, 1904.

JEAN ULRICH, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

DRESS-CHART.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 765,691,dated uly26,1904.

I Application filed October 30, 1903. Serial. No. 179,225 (No model.)

To all whom, it may concern.-

Be it known that I, JEAN ULRIoH, a citizen of the United States,residing at New York, in the county of New York and State of New York,have invented a new and useful Dress Cutting, Fitting, and MeasuringChart, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relatesto garment-cutting charts, and has for its objectthe production of a set of charts by means of which the properdimensionsof the several sections of fabric for the formation of Womensdresses may be determined without measurements.

The invention consists, broadly speaking, in a system of charts of suchcharacter that they may be fitted to the figure of a woman and securedin such relative position that the outline of each section of fabricnecessary to the making of a dress may be readily determined from thecharts and the necessity of making measurements and drawing outlinesfromthe measurements made to be completely avoided.

In describing the invention reference will be had to the accompanyingdrawings, in which are illustrated a system of charts embodying theinvention in the preferred form, it being understood that changes in theform of the various charts forming the system may be made to conform todifferent styles and fashions without departing from the spirit of theinvention or sacrificing any of its advantages.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a view showing the chart-sectionscorresponding to the pieces of fabric required for one-half of thebodice. Fig. 2 is a view of the chart-sections corresponding to one-halfof the skirt. Fig. 3 is a view of the chart-sections for a sleeve.

Fig. 4 is a view of the chart-section corre- Fig. 5 1s sponding toone-half of the collar.

. a view of one of the fasteners employed-in connecting thechart-sections.

Referring to the drawings, in which corresponding parts are designatedby similar characters of reference, A, B, C, and D represent thechart-sections which are employed in determining the proper outline forthe pieces of fabric forming one side of the front of a bodice. Each ofthese chart-sections is provided near its forward margin and near the.

top and bottom margins with a plurality of parallel lines for locatingthe points to serve as guides in cutting. Section A is designed to besecured in position with its front margin A at the median line and withthe concave curve A at the base of the neck. The upper margin A liesontop of the shoulder, and the bottom and rear margins are attached tochart sections C and B, respectively. Near the rear margin A there isformed a slit A in the chart-section A, and this slit corresponds inposition to the slot in a fastening device of the form illustrated inFig. 5. The fastening device (designated generally as X) consists,preferably, of astrip of highlyflexible metal provided with a slot Ythroughout almost the entire length. Upon one side of the slot Y itsedge is smooth, as shown,

and on the other the edge is serrated, so as to present a plurality ofsharp teeth adapted to penetrate a piece of fabric and obtain a firmhold thereon. The fastener X is secured on the inside of thechart-section A with itsslot Y in registration with the slit A in thechartsection, and the adjacent chart-section B has its forward marginBprovided with a tongue B which has a stiffener B of wire or othersuitable material, in the edge thereof. The tongue B is adapted forinsertion through the slit A and the stifii'ener B will prevent thecrumpling of the tongue when it is passed through the slit. At thebottom of the chartsection is formed a tongue A, with stiifener A, whichis adapted to pass through a slit 0 in the top of the chart-section Cand to be secured therein by means of a fastener of the form alreadydescribed.

Chartsection B has its upper margin B dis posed above the shoulder,andthe curve B of the rear margin. forms the forward portion of theoutline of the armhole, while the lower portion 13 of the rear margindetermines the 7 position of the side seam. The bottom of thechart-section B is provided with a tongue B having a stilfener B forengagement with the fastener associated with a slit D -in thechartsection D. In the rear portion of the chart B is a slit B for thereception of the tongue on the adjacent chart-section to the rear.

Chart-section O is secured in position at the,

bottom of chart-section A by means of the tongue A and the fasteneradjacent to the slit 0 in chart-section G. The chart-section is providedwith parallel lines forming cuttingguides at the forward margin C andbottom.

margin C and near the rear margin 0 is formed a slit C for the receptionof a tongue upon chart-section D.

The chart-section D is provided at its front margin D with a tongue Dhaving a stiffener D for engagement with a slit C in chartsection 0, andis provided near the rear margin with a slit D for the reception of thetongue of the chart-section to the rear, while the slit D near the uppermargin is adapted to receive the tongue B.

The chart-sections E, F, G, and H form collectively the chartsrepresenting the pieces of fabric employed in the formation of one-halfof the back of the bodice, and these chartsections resemble in generalfeatures those already described. The section E is provided at itsforward margin E with tongues E and E for engagement with slots insections B and D, and its upper margin E is disposed beneath the arm.The rear margin of section E is provided with a tongue E, having astiffener E of the ordinary form in order to engage with the slit in thechart-section F.

Section F is provided near its forward margin F with a slit F and hasthe upper margin F cut on a slight curve and inclined to form a portionof the outline of the armhole. At the rear margin F there is provided atongue F for engagement with fastening means on the adjacent section Gr.

Section G has a slit G near the forward margin G, and the upper portionof said forward margin is formed in a curve G which completes the rearportion of the outline of the armhole. The upper margin G* extends abovethe shoulder and contacts with the upper margin of chart-section B.

Chart-section H is attached to the chart-section G by means of a tongueGr at the rear margin Gr of section G and is provided near its forwardmargin H with a slit H for the reception of said tongue. At the topsection H presents a marginal portion H which forms a continuation ofthe marginal portion Gr of section G and the marginal portion H, whichlies at the base of the neck.

The dimensions of the collar will be determined from a chart-section K,which may be attached to the upper margins of sections A, B, Gr, and Hby pins or otherwise, as may be desired.

necting-link between sections L and 0, being 5 attached to both of thesesections by means of fastening devices similar to those described asconnecting the other chart-sections. Section 0 is that which representsthe bottom portion of the sleeve and is adjustable relative to section Min order to get the proper sleeve length.

gins with parallel lines to form cutting-guides and are adjustablerelative to each other in order to determine the proper outline, as wellas the size of the sleeve.

Sections R, S, and T are those employed in determining the proportionsof the pieces of fabric used in constructing the skirt, section R beingthat which represents one-half of the front width of goods, section Sthat representing the side width, and section T that representing one ofthe back widths. These three sections are provided, as usual, along thetop and free margin with parallel lines forming cutting-guides, thoselines near the bottom being especially numerous in order to adapt thechart for cutting skirts of widely-varying length. The three sections R,S, and T are adjustably connected by means of a fastener passing throughslits in the manner already described, and in order to facilitate theadjustment of the sections R, S, and T as to length each is provided onthe inside with one or more tapes or ribbons U, attached to the bottomof the section and extending upwardly through an opening near the top.To adjust the sections R, S, and T to the waist of the person for whomthe dress is to be made, a tape or ribbon V is extended through the topsof all these sections and forms means whereby they may be drawn into theproper position and secured there.

The mode of using the chart as above described has already beensuggested in the preceding paragraph and may be briefly described, asfollows: The sections of the chart representing the pieces of goods forforming the bodice will be connected by means of the tongues and slotsformed on the sections and will then be fitted upon the figure of theperson for whom the dress is to be made, the necessary adjustment of theseveral parts being provided for by the tongue-and-slit fasteners. Assoon as two sections of the chart system have been brought into properrelative position they will be secured automatically by the engagementof the teeth of the fasteners -X with the material, preferably lightcanvas or duck, of which the chart-sections are made. The chart-sectionsfor the bodice having been adjusted to proper position, the lines toserve as guides in cutting may be marked by a suitable marking means,and the sections L, M, and O for the sleeve may be next fitted intoproper relative position. The procedure in adjusting the sections Thethree chart-sections of -the sleeve are all provided at their free mar-R, S, and T for the skirt is in the main similar to the adjustment ofthe sections for the bodice, but the shortening of the skirt-sections bymeans of tapes is different from any adjustment of the bodice-section,as there is no necessity for such shortening to correspond to thevariations of length necessary in the cutting of goods for bodices.

As the material of which the charts are formed is light canvas or duck,both of which are highly flexible and inelastic materials, the outlinesfor the pieces of goods obtained by adjusting the sections into properrelative position upon the figure of the person for whom the dress is tobe made can be relied upon to give a good fit.

The special form of fastening means employed to secure the othersections in adjusted position is of great advantage, because it ispractically automatic in action and is effective to fasten the parts atexactly the right position. When the tongue on one chart-section isdrawn through the slit of another section to the proper distance, theteeth formed at the rear edge of the slot Y in the fastener X adjacentto the slit will grip the material and the tongue at once and preventthe slightest rearward movement.

Having thus described the nature and use of my invention, What I claimas new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. In a system of dress-cutting charts, a chart-section having near onemargin a slit, a fastener permanently attached to said section adjacentto the slit and having a slot registering with the slit and an adjoiningchart-section having a tongue adapted for passage through the slot inthe fastener and the slit in the first-mentioned chart-section.

2. In a system of dress-cutting charts, a chart-section having a slitnear one margin, a fastening device fixed on said chart-section andcomprising a plate of flexible metal having a slot registering with theslit in the chartsection, said slot having its rear margin serrated, andan adjoining chart-section having a tongue adapted for insertion throughthe slot in the fastener on the first-mentioned chart-section.

3. In a dress-cutting chart, a plurality of chart-sections representingthe pieces of goods employed in making the skirt, said chart-sectionsbeing adjustably connected so that they may be fitted to the figure of aperson, and being provided with shortening-tapes attached at one end tothe material of the chart-sections and having the other ends extendedthrough openings in the chart-sections in con venient position to begrasped to effect the shortening of said chart-sections.

4. In a dress-cutting chart, a chart-section corresponding to a skirtWidth, said chartsection having shortening-tapes attached at their lowerends to the bottom of the chartsection and having their upper endspassing through openings in the chart-section near the top.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my own I have hereto aflixedmy signature in the presence of two witnesses.

JEAN ULRICH.

Witnesses:

EDSON L. TIEL, WILLIAM J. Romans.

